Shirt.



G. BECKER & N. WOLFE.

SHIRT.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 4, 1911.

Patented Dec. 3, 1912.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

A unfl G. BECKER & N. WOLFE.

SHIRT.

.APPLIOATION FILED DEC. 4, 1911.

Patented Dec. 3, 1912.

2 SHEET S-SHBET 2.

I W E. W

i To all whom it may concern:

GEORGE BECKER AND NATHAN OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SHIRT.

Specification of Letters ratnt.

Application filed December 4, 1911. Serial No. 663,904.

Be it known that we, GEORGE BECKER and NATHAN WOLFF, both citizens of the United States, residing in the borough tan, city, county, and State of'New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

Our invention, while applicable to the sleeves of garments enerally, is especially designed for shirt sleeves, the object beingi to afford what may be designated as a reinforced extension sleeve,-the reinforcing being for the purpose of strengthening and preserving the attachment between sleeve and wrist band or cuff, as the casemay be,- and the extension being for the purpose of adapting the garment to the varying requirements of customers. In other words our improvements relate particularly to what are known as ready-made shirts carried in stock by'the retail trade. As heretofore obtainable in the market the cuffs or the wrist bands of these shirts have been attached directly to a single thickness or ply of the sleeve cloth, the sleeves themselves being of prescribed length, and the shirts being made of standard sizes in which the length of sleeve varies about two inches as between sizes. This co truction necessitates the extension of theJsleeves for a customer relatively long of arm as compared with chest or neck measurement, for instance, such change causing delay, expense and inconvenience, and involving the detaching of the cuffs or wrist bands, and the insertion of strips between them and the sleeves, resulting in a patched and unsightly appearance. Furthermore, the starch applied to the cuff or wrist band during the laundrying of the garment is apt to over-lap the cuff or wrist band and extend to the adjacent edge of the sleeve to which the cuff or Wristband is attached, so that when the sleeve at line of attachment is only of-a single ply or thickness of cloth as heretofore, the latter is rendered brittle by the ironing process, and the cuff or wrist band soon breaks away, in whole or in art, from the sleeve, rendering the shirt efeotive and useless long before the rest of the garment is impaired or worn out. These difficulties we obviate by our invention the object of which is to provide each sleeve of Manhat- I with a separately formed auxiliary exten- Patented Dec. 3, 1912.

sible reinforcing band of special construction to which the cuff or wristband is directly and permanently attached. This auxiliary band, forming practically part of the shirt sleeve and interposed between the main portion thereof, and the cuff or wristband, performs the double function of reinforced means of attachment between cuif or Wristband and sleeve, and also of means for ex tending the length of the sleeve when necessary without detaching the cufi' or wrist band, all as hereinafter fully set forth and claimed specifically,it being understood in this connection thatthe cuff and the wrist band are considered as equivalents of each other, varying only in width,the ordinary Wrist band being essentially a narrow cufi' to which a detachable cuff may be attached in the usual manner, while the term cuff as herein used refers to a cuff attached permanently either directly or indirectly to the sleeve.

In the accompanying drawings, we represent more or less diagrammatically the construction and utility of our auxiliary ext-ensible reinforcing band forming practically part of a shirt sleeve and interposed between the outer edge of the sleeve proper and the cuff, where the latter is permanently attached, or between said edge of the sleeve and the Wrist band where a detachable cuff is to be used. In the sectional views the several thicknesses of material are represented by solid black lines, which are spaced apart for clearness of illustration.

Fi ure 1, is an elevation of our extensible.

rein orcing band strip partly broken away to show the inner fold, &c.; Fig. 2, a transverse section taken upon the plane of line 00-00 Fig. 1; Fig. 3,'is an elevation, partly broken away, showing our auxiliary band stitched to the sleeve along the line of subsequent severence;

Fig. 4, is a section upon plane of line yy Fig. 3; Fig. 5, is an elevation showing the outer folds of our auxiliary band turned back to allowthe stitching of the outer edge of the sleeve permanently to the edges of the inner extenslble folds of said band; Fig. 6, is a transverse section upon plane of line a2 Fig. 5; Fig. 7. is an elevation partly broken away, showi g our auxiliary band in condition for attachment to a cufi' or wrist band; Fig. 8, 1s a transverse section upon plane of line 88 Fig. 7; Fig. 9, is an elevation representing an ordinary wrist band attached to our auxiliary extensible reinforcing band; Fig. 10, is an elevation representing an ordinary cufi' permanently attached to our auxiliary extensible reinforcing band; Fig. 11, is a transverse section upon plane of line 11-11 Fig. Fig. 12, is an elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 11, with our auxiliary reinforcing band extended; Fig. 13, is a transerse section upon the line 1313 Fig. 12; Fig.71et, is an elevation illustrating the operation of extension.

The gist of our invention consists in the specific form and construction of the extensible auxiliary reinforcing band B, interposed between an ordinary cufi' C, or wrist band C, and an ordinary shirt sleeve S. This auxiliary extensible reinforcing band B, is formed preferably of a single strip of material united transversely at the ends, as by the seam 1, (Fig. 1) thereby constituting an endless double band equal inlength to the width of the edge .9, of the sleeve S, to

which it is to be attached. One edge of the strip is turned inward to form the central I extensible folds 2, 2. This preliminary structure is illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. The next step, in the process of manufacture is to insert the edge 8, of the sleeve S, between the extensible folds 2, 2, with its extreme edge parallel to and coinciding with the inner edges thereof, as shown-in Fig. 4,

together by the line of stitching .s, adjoining the bight between the outer folds 3, 3-,'

and the inner extensible folds '2, 2. The outer sides 3, 3, of the band B, are then folded back over the sleeve as illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6 and the-extreme edges, of the sleeveand extensible folds 2, ,2,united by a line of stitching 4. Next the outer sides 3, 3, of the band B, are again folded outward into theirformer positions with their edges protruding beyond the extensible folds 2, 2, as shown in Figs.- 7 and 8. This leaves the line of stitching 4, and the inner edge .9, of the sleeve S, and the inner edges of the extensible folds 2, 2, inclosed by said unattached thereto except in so far as the line of stitching s, hereinbefore referred to, is concerned. An ordinary cuff C,-or if the shirt is designed for usewith detachable cufi's, an ordinary wrist band C, is now sewed to the outer edges of the'outer folds may be, and uniting the parts by'a'line of stitches -5, thereby. permanently attaching when the parts thus positioned are securedouter sides 3, 3, of the band, but free and ner,-that shown in Figs. 10 and 11 con'sistand thus indirectly to the sleeve S, of the shirt. This results in the finished product shown either in Fig. 9 or Fig. 10,the diagram Fig. 11 showing the outer plies of the cuff spread apart, and the line 6, representing the line of stitching that unites the outer edges of the cuff fabric. The inner edge of the cuff or wrist band being thus attached to the outer edges. of both of the outer folds 3, 3, of our auxiliary band B, i the connection is obviously more secure than when the attachment is directly to a sleeve consisting of only a single thickness of material, because the main strain and tendency to tear is at or near this line of juncture between the stiff, starched cuff or wrist band, and the part to which it is sewed. F urthermore presuming that the starch in laundrying protruded over the inner edge of the cuff or wrist band and onto our auxiliary band B,- it is likewise obvious that the double thickness of the latter would be an effective protection, constituting practically, to all intents and purposes, a part or continuation ofthe cuff or wrist band, in which extension the stiffening caused by the starch would gradually blend and disappear before reaching the connection between our said auxiliary band and the single thickness S, of the sleeve itself. "In other words our auxiliary reinforcing band B, insures a flexible joint between sleeve and cufl or wrist-band under all conditions, and thereby obviates danger of brittleness and rupture between cufl or wrist band and sleeve. This condi- .tion obtains whether our auxiliary reinforcing band B, is in its original form, or opened up to release the. extensible inner-folds 2, 2,

to lengthen the sleeve. This latter operation is eifected' by severing the line of stitching ,3, adjacent to the bight between .the inner extensible folds 2, 2, and the reinforcing band by the added width of said extensible folds 2,2, as illustrated in Figs. 12, 13, and 14=,the seam 4, between said ori a1 extensible folds 2, 2, and the sleeve remaining intact, and effectually uniting the parts. In this connection our auxiliary reinforcing band B, whether ex-' ,tendedor in its original form, may be likened to a relatively strong, tough, but flexible coupling interposed between the stiff cufi G, .or wrist band C, and the weaker v single-ply fabric of the'sleeve-proper S.

In either form, whether extended orv not, ourauxiliary band affords a finlshed and attracti've appearance, and adds to the. strength and value of the garment. In ,1ts' or1gina1 form the extensible folds 2, 2, are entirely isolated, concealed and protected, their presence not being obvious until required.

What we claim as our invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,

- In a shirt sleeve, the combination with the sleeve and cufl' or wrist band, of an auxiliary extensible reinforcing band separatefrom and interposed between them and consisting of a sin le strip of material united at the ends an having outward folds to which the cuff or wrist band is attached and inner extensible folds to and between which the edge of the sleeve is attached,

said sleeve being also attached to the outer and inner folds of the auxiliary band by another line of stitching near the bight between said inner and outer folds of the auxiliary band, the severance of which latter line of stitching releases the extensible folds of the auxiliary band and thereby lengthens the sleeve, as and for the purpose described.

GEORGE BECKER. NATHAN WOLFF.

Witnesses:

Gno. WM. Mmrr, LILLIAN MIATT. 

